i just installed a new near driver side brake caliper (the last one froze) new pads and a new rotor, i bleed the brakes, and there was no leaks, but the pedal still goes down very low
Brake petal still touching the floor after install caliper, pads, and rotor, no leaks either? any tips?
That's a power brake booster or master cylinder problem.
Reply:Bleed the wheel cylinders,%26gt;%26gt;?Air in them replace all the brake fluid its over do%26gt;%26gt;?
Reply:You probably have not bled ALL the air out of the system. Even the tiniest air bubble anywhere in the system will compress when you activate the brakes making the pedal spongy. If you didn't keep up refilling the master cylinder as you bled it, it could have forced more air into the lines from the reservoir.
If that's not it, it's probably your master cylinder, but I doubt it if it worked okay until your caliper frose.
Bleed it again.
If you don't already have something, you might consider getting some better equipment to do it with. A simple hand operated vacuum pump would do wonders. Kits are available at most auto parts stores, sometimes Walmart, and usually Sears. They allow you to diagnose vacuum devices, bleed brakes, and diagnose various systems, and include basic diagnostic procedures. When bleeding brakes you can either use it to pull brake fluid through a caliper, or you could reverse it and force fluid back through the caliper. It sure beats using the brake pedal, because it moves a much greater volume of fluid with each stroke.
Reply:sounds like a master cylinder or booster problem
Reply:Make sure all the air is out of the brake lines and the master cylinder is topped off....
Reply:if it goes to the floor then you didnt bleed them!
no car name, no year, no model., no mileage, ABS ?
is this a 1909 Hupmobile?
bleeding today is done 3 ways today.
1- old fashion gravity ,and press pedal open valve close repeat.
2- pressure bleeding.
3- vacuum .
My I suggest going to step 1 , old fashion way.
pump the pedal 3 times, open the bleed nipple with plastic tube connected to end in to bottle.
then when pedal goes to floor, close valve and then and only then raise pedal.
repeat until you HAVE full pedal.
always start from the longest brake line to the shortest.
RR, LR, RF, LF. (depends on front to rear line routing)
if ABS, THIS the ordering, can be different. FIND OUT!
do not let air get ahead of any ABS valve modulator your
you will need expert help.
You need a manual.
There can be other issues.
PS: you can get much better help by joining a forum just for you car. Then they would not have guess about every thing.
Reply:I would keep bleeding both front wheels a few more times and if they don't get any better you might have a bad master cylinder.
Reply:Change the master cylinder its sounds bad, they can leak internally.
Reply:ok if you already bleed the brake lines then you master cylinder is mest up or just the vacumes inside check if you can buy the kit to fix it first if not then your going to have to buy the whole thing but try bleeding all four calipers
Reply:I hope you had another person to help you bleed the brakes, it takes two unless you have the tool to automatically refill the master cylinder. Also did you adjust the ear brakes, the self adjusters to me are just a joke and then again you may have to replace the rear shoes also.
Reply:try bleeding all the brake sistem starting at the bleeder forthist away from the master make sure to pump up the b pedle each time and do it 7-8 times each checking the fluid in the resavore to keep the fluid levle up adjust the rear brakes aswell this can cause extra pedle travel to if all that dos'nt work you need to look at the master cylener
it may not be leaking but it can bypass inside or it can leek inside the booster unbolt the master at the booster and pull it away it will be wet or rusted out ware the back seal
GOOD LUCK BRAD A